Aquarium sizes - There is a general rule to go by which states that each adult discus should have around 10 gallons (45 litres) each. i.e. 10  adult discus to a 100 gallon tank. Of course, if large daily water changes are to be carried out then this limit can be sensibly exceeded. Small tanks can be used for rearing fish but again large daily water changes should be carried out. Planted tanks are OK but bear in mind the temperatures required for keeping discus are high, typically 82º - 95º. Planted tanks can also be difficult if the need for medication arises. Most discus medications spell danger to plants but medication is another totally separate issue (see links pages)
Most breeders tend to use bare tanks for ease of keeping clean and hygienic conditions. This also reduces the risk of any disease outbreaks.

Water Parameters - There are no hard and fast rules about keeping discus in soft or hard water. However, they thrive in water which has a PH range of 6.5 to 7.5, a GH (general hardness) in the range 3º - 10º and a KH (carbonate hardness) of between 1º and 6º. Water changes are the key to success. Water with the same parameters & temperature as the tank water should be used to avoid stressing the fish. Water should also be stored for 24 hours prior to being used and be treated with a de-chlorinator. Water changes really are the key to keeping healthy discus. Asian breeders change up to 95% at any one time (but their water is near perfect!!)

Feeding A variety of foods should be fed. A good beefheart mix, flake foods, frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, krill, Bloodworms will all be accepted by these fish. A word of caution here - Bloodworms should not be fed too often. It's said they can induce problems of the intestines (hexamita/spironucleus). LiveTubifex are a definite NO. These carry parasites and should be avoided.
Earthworms are used by many breeders and are relished by the fish. These should be small and perhaps purged by keeping in shredded newspaper for 24 hours prior to feeding. There's a train of thought amongst some breeders that they keep the fishes intestines functioning properly and reduce the risks of infections developing. White worms are a favourite food also. They're said to be easily cultured but I must confess we've never had much success in breeding (keeping) them.

Breeding. Is usually done successfully with one pair of fish to a tank of 18 gallons upwards although in larger tanks the fry may have trouble locating their parents. They will breed in a planted or community tank but success will vary. One sure thing about breeding discus - NOBODY DOES IT THE SAME WAY!!. What works for one breeder may not work for another. General guidelines for a breeding tank are 18" (45cm) x 18" (45cm) x 18"(45cm) tanks with a heater, an air driven biological sponge filter and a spawning substrate (cone, piping, brick etc). Soft water with a PH of 5 to 7, a KH of around 2-3º and a GH of around 2-5º. Temperatures around 84º to 88º are needed. When the pair are ready to spawn they will start bowing to each other, quivering and doing some 'tail slapping' which is fun to watch! They will also start to c lean off the site where they will eventually lay the eggs. This may not be where YOU want them to lay. They often lay eggs on the glass or the heater. In this case patience is what is required. They will eventually lay on the correct substrate all they need is a little practice.

Spawning takes place usually late in the day. The pair will clean the site and the female will make "dummy runs" with the male looking on and waiting anxiously for his time to p erform. She can lay anything from 50 to 300 eggs at any one time, turbo spawns of 500 are rare but possible, the norm is around 150. They will take it in turns to guard and fan the eggs which will hatch in 48 to 60 hours if they have been fertilised. It is usual for one of them to go very dark in anticipation of the fry hatching. Through all this the parents are still fed daily. The parents might move the wrigglers to another site, so don't panic too much if they look as though they've disappeared.!! It's thought they do this to fool any predators.

Free-swimming. After a further 72 hours the fry should become free-swimming. We usually turn the air down even more during this time so that the fry don't get too battered around by the current. It makes it easier for them to find the parents who, by this time, are dark so as to attract the fry to them in order to feed off the mucus they are producing. If all goes well, you'll see all the fry over the backs of the parents. This is a wonderful sight to experience. It is also a crucial period for the fry. When you are changing water, it is necessary to replace with aged water which has the same parameters and temperature as the tank. Fry at this stage are very delicate and susceptible to changes. Once they are free swimming it is advisable to leave a light on over the tank all night so the fry can continue to feed.They will feed off their parents for as long as they can, if allowed to. On about the 6th day of freeswimming we usually offer baby brine shrimp (nauplii) to supplement their diet and to also start to wean them off the parents. After 10 days or so the fry can be removed to another tank, if desired, with exactly the same parameters . They can be left in with the parents as long as the adults do not get too stressed or have 'holes' eaten in their skin. Discus fry have extremely sharp teeth and when feeding can, and often do, make grazes in the skin. If you watch them carefully you will see them tearing into the mucus lining of the adults.

These pages are still under construction - please, check back soon!!

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